Let’s
lay down an important theme from the start: the huge amount of rivalry when it
comes to claims of sandwich invention. The origin of falafel is one of the most
hotly disputed of them all, although it is thought they were invented by the
Christian Copts of Egypt, who were not permitted to consume meat during certain
holidays. Falafels filled the gap. They swiftly gained popularity in the Middle
East, and were particularly adopted by Israel as a symbol of national identity.
Don’t be tempted to use canned beans for this, they’re too mushy. Don’t say I
didn’t warn you.
Makes enough for a small army—about 40 falafel; 8–10 servings
FOR
THE FALAFEL:
2½ cups (500g) dried garbanzo beans
(chickpeas)
31/3 cups (500g) dried split fava beans
(broad beans)
6 scallions (spring onions), chopped
2 tsp sea salt
1 tsp black
pepper
2 tsp ground
turmeric
4 tbsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
2 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground coriander
4 garlic cloves, peeled
3 tbsp all-purpose (plain) flour
2 tsp baking powder
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
FOR
THE TAHINI SAUCE:
1 heaped tbsp tahini, or to taste
1 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste
3 tbsp plain yogurt, or to taste
Pita breads, shredded cabbage, pickled
chilies, and pickled turnips, to serve
To make the falafel, place the garbanzo beans
(chickpeas) and fava beans (broad beans) in a large bowl and cover with about
three times their volume of cold water (they will swell enormously overnight).
The next day, drain them and place in the bowl of a food processor along with
all the other ingredients (except the vegetable oil for deep-frying). Blend
until well mixed, but the beans still retain some texture.
Pour some vegetable oil into a deep frying pan
or an electric deep-fat fryer and heat to 350°F (180°C). In the absence of a
special falafel shaper (no, I don’t have one either), it’s best to shape them
by hand. Take a small handful of the falafel mixture and squeeze it in your
fist until it holds together. Repeat until you have used up all the mixture (to
make about 40 falafel). Carefully drop the balls into the hot oil and cook in
batches for a couple of minutes, until golden brown all over. Drain on paper
towels. Keep warm in a low oven while you cook the rest. Serve hot.
To make the tahini sauce, mix together all the
ingredients, plus some salt and pepper, taste, and then add more tahini, lemon
juice, or yogurt as necessary.
To
assemble each sandwich, lightly toast a pita bread and cut it in half
lengthwise, leaving 2 canoe-shaped pockets. Stuff each with a little shredded
cabbage, some falafel, a drizzle of tahini sauce, a pickled chili, and some
pickled turnip. Enjoy while fresh and hot!
