The refrigerator is a wonderfully useful kitchen appliance, but
if it had existed since the dawn of time, we may never have invented other
methods of preservation and would likely never have had something as fabulous
as pastrami. Imagine!
Pastrami is
traditionally produced by curing beef brisket in brine, which is then rubbed
with wine vinegar and a selection of spices, including juniper, coriander, ginger,
paprika, and pepper, among others. The meat is then dry-cured for one to two
weeks before being smoked for around six hours, then steamed or braised. Phew!
It’s a lengthy process. Nowadays, briskets are more likely to be injected with
brine, rather than soaked. Pastrami is also much softer than it once was, due
to the invention of that handy refrigerator, meaning that a weaker salt
solution can be used.
A man named Sussman Volk is credited with
popularizing pastrami in America, although this is disputed (as ever) by Katz’s
deli, famous for their gigantic pastrami sandwiches to this day. The recipe
below is for a classic pastrami sandwich; pile the meat as high as you dare. To
turn the sandwich into a Rachel, which is a variation on The Reuben on page
16, add coleslaw and omit the mustard.
Makes 1
INGREDIENTS
2 slices light rye bread
Mustard, such as Dijon (although I
prefer English)
Sliced pastrami, as much as you dare
Dill pickles (pickled gherkins), to
serve
Spread 1 slice of bread with mustard and then
layer up that pastrami. Top with the second slice of bread and see how far your
jaw can open. Serve the dill pickles on the side.
