Kebabs have a somewhat tarnished reputation as
poor-quality meat mops, sponging up the consequences of a boozy night out.
Often referred to as an “elephant’s leg,” the great rotating kebab shop spit is
regarded with derision during sobriety.
A proper
shawarma, however, is something special. This Levantine-Arab specialty sees
various types of meat, including beef, lamb, chicken, veal, or a mixture,
marinated in a complex blend of herbs and spices, mounted on a spit, and
broiled (grilled) vertically, ready to be shaved and served to order. The
shawarma can also refer to sliced marinated meats, which are grilled over the
direct heat of the fire.
As with many sandwiches, particularly spiced ones,
condiments are key; the shawarma is usually served with parsley-flecked
tabbouleh, tarator sauce (a tahini garlic sauce; every kebab shop has its
secret recipe), pickles, and cooling cucumber and tomato.
Makes 10
INGREDIENTS
FOR
THE LAMB AND MARINADE:
4 tbsp red wine vinegar
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
3 cardamom pods, crushed
Pinch of superfine (caster) sugar
At least 1 tsp black pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
5½lb (2.5kg) leg of lamb, butterflied
Sea salt and black pepper, to taste
FOR
THE TARATOR SAUCE:
1 slice white bread (crusts removed),
broken up into small pieces
1 tbsp tahini, or to taste
3 garlic cloves
(skin on), roasted and cooled, then the soft flesh squeezed out of the skins
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
Generous pinch of ground cumin
FOR
THE TABBOULEH:
1/3 cup (50g) bulgur wheat, cooked
according to packet instructions, then drained and cooled
3oz (85g) fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
(a bit of stalk is fine), very finely chopped
6 cherry tomatoes, very finely chopped
4 scallions (spring onions), green parts
only, very thinly sliced
A small handful of fresh mint leaves,
very finely chopped
1 garlic clove (peeled), blanched for a
minute in boiling water, then drained and crushed
About 4 tbsp olive oil
Lemon juice, to taste
10 large pita breads, to serve
Sliced tomatoes, cucumber, and pickles
(pickled chilies and pickled turnips are ideal), to serve
To prepare the lamb and marinade, mix all the
ingredients together, except the lamb and salt and pepper for seasoning. Make
deep slits all over the lamb and spread the marinade all over it, working it
into the meat. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, bring the lamb to room
temperature. Light a BBQ for direct grilling. Once the flames have died down
and the coals have turned white, it’s ready for cooking. Season the lamb with
salt and pepper. Place the lamb on the grill, fat-side down, and grill for
about 20 minutes. Turn the lamb over and grill for a further 20 minutes, until
cooked. Remove the lamb from the grill, cover with aluminum foil, and let rest
for 15 minutes before slicing and serving.
Meanwhile, make the tarator sauce and tabbouleh
salad.
To make the tarator sauce, mix all the
ingredients together in a bowl, adding enough cold water to loosen the mixture
to the consistency of ketchup. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then cover
and refrigerate until ready to serve.
To make the tabbouleh, mix all the ingredients
together and then season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate
until ready to serve.
To assemble the sandwiches, toast the pita
breads, then split and fill with hot sliced lamb, tarator sauce, tabbouleh, and
sliced tomatoes, cucumber, and pickles. Serve at once.
